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The restaurant at The Connaught in London has reopened under the auspices of a celebrity chef from France - but eating there may necessitate a small bank loan.

Most of the people in this newly refurbished capital city restaurant are businessmen. They have to be to afford the prices. But suits would argue its food is worth the money.

Meals are cooked under the direction of double-Michelin-starred Helene Darroze

She contrasts influences from her native south-west France with spices from the countries she visited before she adopted her daughter, India and Vietnam.

So expect an unusual combination of cuisine, like poached apricot and ice-cream flavoured with Sichuan pepper.

And expect to go broke. Wine is exorbitantly priced by the bottle and rarer by the glass.

Water refreshes the palate, so we're told.

Darroze's accolades were earned at the Left Bank in Paris, a restaurant she still owns after training with famous Monte Carlo figure Alain Ducasse of Louis XV.

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